Are you interested in a smart thermostat because you want to control the stove remotely (i.e. To turn it on 20 min before you get home from work) because if so then any 7-day programmable milli-volt thermostat will do what you are looking for. You can set the desired temp for weekday wake up temp, weekday leave temp, weekday return temp, and weekday bedtime temp, as well as weekend settings for all of the above. Harman pellet stoves are not made to be operated by a thermostat, but rather run by “stove temp” or “room temp”. “Room temp” is sensed by the room probe which is basically a thermostat without the display. To wire a thermostat to a harman stove you need to hook it up in series with the room probe and leave the room temp dial up as high as possible.
Why I need buy WiFi Shield for every Arduino in my house if would be greate if I can use just one. Now I have make I2C connection with others Arduino in all rooms, and use virtual pin to control all others Arduinos. For example in cellar I have Pellet Stove witch is controled by Arduino.
This will constantly call for heat but the thermostat will break or bridge that connection based on the set temp vs. Actual room temp.The problem with smart thermostats and pellet stoves is that the thermostats are designed for furnaces which have a constant fuel source and deliver heat on demand to 1 or more zones in a house. The wiring is usually a 4 or 5 wire hookup and requires 2 of those to be a converted power source which is usually standard with furnaces, but not with pellet stoves. It can be done. But it’s a complicated setup and doesn’t factor in the nature of how pellets stoves will often run out of fuel and time-out if they run for a period of time and do not sense a change in temp from the exhaust probe or thermocouple.My recommendation is a 7-day programmable thermostat and wire it in series with the room probe. Thanks, I wanted an advanced one so I could avoid short cycling the stove, and handle remote access and independently control a fan to cycle air through the House only when the stove room gets to a certain temp.I was looking at the ecobee because it allows for independent controlled fan operation and multiple heat sources. I figured I’d run a 24v contacter to take the room temp sensor out of the loop if the ecobee couldn’t do millivolt directly.Maybe I need a full plc for what I want to do lol.
Pretty amazing that only a couple of hours ago and now I have a written variant to try, which I tried something similar on the uno before, the code available at arduino for 'multi-blink' but it wouldn't compile, but then i saw it said you needed a due, but not an uno to run it, but so didn't mess with it all that much, it made sense, but wouldn't run, and I failed to copy the error, but i'll def try running this, with pins of course, is there any reason it wouldn't run on a mega as well? The uno is busy keeping me warm, but I have a mega here, so I'll try that first–Feb 16 '16 at 0:54.
The Arduino (and other similar timer libraries) are made for exactly this kind of application. Your setup routine calls the SimpleTimer library, naming a callback-function and how often it should get called. Your loop function must then call timer.run reasonably frequently (wherereasonably frequently' depends on the timing accuracy and jitter tolerance of your application). Timer.run will call each of your callback-functions at its appropriate time. You write the callback-functions to do whatever you need them to do when the timer calls them.There are one-shot timers and repeating timers - it sounds like your application could one of each per LED: One that fires periodically, to to call a turn-on-LED12 function every (ONTIME12+OFFTIME12) ms, and a one-shot that calls a turn-off-LED12 function, started by the turn-on-LED12 function for (ONTIME12) msec. Same for LED13, (., etc.)Your loop function is free to do whatever else, as long as it calls timer.run frequently enough that your application can meet its timing requirements.